Our 7-day self-drive route looping through the Namib Desert and up to Etosha
Day 1 - Sleeping under the stars
We arrive in Windhoek late morning. It took us only 30 minutes for the Visa on Arrival process. We were lucky, and we share the details below. Allow between 30 minutes and two hours for the Visa process.
We were picked up from the airport and jumped on our 4x4 through Namibia2go. The check-in was smooth. We stopped at a grocery store on the way to Solitarie to pick up 20 L of water and some snacks. Without knowing what time we would arrive, we opted to buy premade meals. We ate these meals at our hotel the same night.
The drive to Solitaire is around 4 hours, where we experienced our 4x4 for the first time on a gravel road. We just arrived before sunset, and we were so happy we did not drive in the dark, which is dangerous. More details about the driving are below.
In Solitaire, the sky is beautiful!
The absolute clarity of Namibia's night sky. One of the few designated International Dark Sky Reserves in the world.
Day 2 - Sossusvlei
The drive to Sossusvlei is two hours on a gravel road. Make sure to have the tank full before leaving Solitarie. Sossusvlei is a spectacular salt and clay pan surrounded by iconic red dunes within Namibia's Namib-Naukluft National Park. Once you pay the entrance fee for you and your car, there are a few panels near the small parking lot that describe the area. Then, go directly to Big Daddy Dune. Before the Big Daddy Dune parking lot, there is another parking lot for 2x4 cars. Here you have two options: if you have a 4x4, i) you drive your car to the Big Daddy Dune parking lot; or ii) you go with an organized ride paying a fee. When we were there, there were several (100?) 4x4s parked at the Big Daddy Dune, and only one car was stuck in the sand. If you have familiarity driving a 4x4 in the sand (such as decreasing the tyre pressure, using the L4x4 option), then you are good to go.
Big Daddy is the highest dune in the Sossusvlei area and one of the largest in the world. Its height is around 350 meters (over 1,000 feet), and the summit offers panoramic views of the surrounding red dunes and directly overlooks Deadvlei, a famous white-clay pan filled with 800-year-old desiccated camel thorn trees. Even if during peak tour time, very few people climb this majestic dune, but Deadvlei, on the other hand, is stormed by people. The most fun part of climbing Big Daddy is descending from the top to Deadvlei. Running and jumping down is fun and satisfying.
We were starving after that, and we had a picnic under a tree at Dune 45. We were alone, and we took advantage to take more pictures of another red dune. After relaxing at Dune 45, we visited Dune 40, which had a nice tree that fit perfectly in more pictures.
If you have more time, Sesriem Canyon is the last stop. It is a good place to cool down and kill some time, but nothing special. Make sure to go back to your hotel before dark.
Day 3. Walvis Bay and Sandwich Harbour 4X4 Excursion.
In the morning, drive to Walvis Bay. The drive takes a full 3 hours. Although the paved road had a sign of a max speed of 100 km/h, the road was so bad that we maintained a speed of 50 km/h. After this part, the road becomes paved, and it is actually nice going through a few mountain passes.
The Sandwich Harbour 4X4 Excursion tour starts at 12:30 pm. In the tour, the guide/driver took us around all the dunes in Sandwich Harbour. The dunes are pretty high, and the climbing and descending by car is a fun experience. Make sure to sit in front for the best experience. We were lucky to see whales passing near the coast. Make sure to request in advance the sandboarding, and once you meet the driver, remind them as well that you want to do the sandboarding. Even if we requested to do this activity, there was a miscommunication, and they did not have the boards with us. We were super disappointed.
This tour can be done in the morning too. The lights are better early in the day, but fog is more common. The micro-climate in Sandwich Harbour is unpredictable and changes very quickly.
Pro tip: don't do the sunset tour. Most of the days are foggy, and the sun is not visible.
Day 4. Walvis Bay and Pelican Point Kayaking Tour.
In the morning, at 8 am, the tour starts, taking you to the Pelican Point, where hundreds of seals are waiting for you to play with. Dress accordingly. In the morning, the wind can be cold, and you will get very wet. They do give waterproof jackets and trousers, but they were pretty useless, especially for the pants. We suggest having some shorts that can be easily changed after kayaking.
In the kayak, the person in the back will do all the hard work to keep the kayak away from the beach and with the seals, while the person in front keeps the illusion of contributing. The person in front is responsible for taking pictures and videos. We were continuously surrounded by a dozen seals. They love to play with the paddles. They will bite it and try to take it away from you. They also love to be gently pushed with the paddles in the water. Don't be surprised if they jump and sit in front of or in the back of your kayak for a few seconds.
At the end of the tour, have lunch in Walvis Bay and drive to Omaruru, 2.5 hours. Omaruru is a good resting spot between Walvis Bay and Etosha National Park.
Day 5 - First day of safari in Etosha NP.
In the morning, we drove to Okakeujo. We arrive around noon. We were thrilled to see the zebra almost immediately. Ombika was the first waterhole, just a minute after the Anderson gate. Then, we got to Okaukuejo for lunch and to pay the day fee. At the time we went, in May, a lot of roads around Okaukuejo were closed. Make sure to ask which roads are closed, and if any, how to get to specific waterholes. We were not able to reach the Etosha Pan from Okaukuejo on this day. After 4 pm, the animals start being active, and since we need to leave the park by 6:30 pm, our last waterhole was Ombika. Ombika was full of elephants and giraffes before sunset. After the park closed, we drove back to the hotel and did gas in Etosha Trading Post, located just 6.5 km south of the gate.
Day 6 - Second day of safari in Etosha NP.
We had breakfast at 6 am, and we were at the In the morning, we drove to Okakeujo. We arrived at the Anderson gate before opening. Once they opened the gates, we drove to Ombika, and there was a lonely lion drinking water from the waterhole. Since we went directly to Ombika, without stopping to see the impala, we were accompanied by just a few other cars. Once the word spread around, all the tours arrived, and it was complete chaos. This was a sign for us to leave.
We drove to Halali, where we spent our second night, and stopped at all the waterholes we met on the way there. Halali has a nice waterhole inside its camp. However, all the other waterholes are 30 minutes away. This meant that we had to leave 30 minutes before sunset and missed the best moment to be in the waterholes. However, Halali was magical. This waterhole was full of rhinos. It started with just one; we watched for an hour and went to dinner. After dinner, we went back to the waterhole, and there were five rhinos, four hyenas, and zebras. The hyenas tried to hunt the zebra unsuccessfully. More rhinos arrived, and others left. We counted 14 rhinos total, even though we do not know if the same ones left and came back.
Day 7 - Third day of safari in Etosha NP.
Since the waterhole was in the camp, we woke up at 5 am hoping to see some cats, but it was empty. It stayed empty all morning. The closest waterhole near Halali was 30 minutes. We drove there after the gates opened. We were the first to arrive at this waterhole, and we saw a cat in the distance walking away. Too far away to know what it was, probably a lioness. We just arrived too late, but we could have arrived earlier.
We then drove in the direction of Namutoni, stopping at every waterhole. This area seemed more populated with animals. Some waterholes are difficult to reach, and few cars are present. We were surrounded by hundreds of zebras in one waterhole.
After lunch and another waterhole, we ended our safari and drove to Otjiwarongo, 3 hours away. Otjiwarongo is a good resting spot between Etosha National Park and Windhoek, just 3 hours away from Windhoek airport.
Before this trip, we read that the VoA had a shorter line. This was also our experience; when we arrived, there was a short line for the VoA and a long line for the e-Visa. They cost the same and grant the same duration (up to 30 days). The primary difference is the application method: the e-Visa is applied for and approved online before your trip, while the VoA is purchased and processed after landing at a Namibian port of entry.
We arrived from Cape Town on a small aircraft and were fortunate to be among the first passengers at the Visa on Arrival (VoA) immigration desk. The payment and passport stamping process takes about 10 minutes per person/family. Based on what we observed, the processing time for travelers with an e-visa appeared to be similar. However, we had read reports of travelers waiting up to two hours to clear immigration, especially when several flights arrive at the same time. Keep this possibility in mind when booking your first night's accommodation. Long and unexpected delays at the airport can affect your car rental pickup time and may result in having to drive after dark, which is generally not recommended in Namibia.
International eSIMs may not work reliably in Namibia. A better option is to purchase a SIM card from MTC Namibia, the country's main mobile provider. Skip the MTC kiosk before customs and instead visit the MTC shop in the arrivals area, where prices are usually lower. The airport is small, so the shop is easy to find. You can purchase either a physical SIM card or an eSIM, although the eSIM is more expensive. Each passport can be used to register up to two SIM cards. MTC typically offers 7-day and 30-day plans, with no option in between. Be sure to ask about current promotions. When we purchased our SIM cards, they included additional data at no extra cost.
We assumed that a 4x4 is required for Namibia, but we saw plenty of people driving regular sedans throughout the country. In the Sossusvlei area, we saw more sedans than Jimny. Most of the main roads and many gravel roads are accessible with a standard vehicle if driven carefully. That said, a sedan has its limitations. Some roads can be heavily corrugated, and deep potholes or sandy sections may be challenging, especially after rain. We drove a high-clearance vehicle (Jimny) and were glad to have it on several occasions. If you choose a sedan, plan your route carefully, check road conditions in advance, and drive more conservatively. Add 30% more time to the Google Map ETA. For the most popular tourist destinations, a sedan is a viable and more affordable option, but it does require a bit more caution and flexibility.
One aspect of driving in Namibia that surprised us was how aggressively some drivers overtake. It was not uncommon to see vehicles attempting to pass with very little margin, sometimes forcing oncoming traffic to slow down or move aside. These maneuvers can create a significant risk of head-on collisions, especially on long, straight roads where drivers may become overconfident. Stay alert, keep a safe following distance, and do not feel pressured to overtake unless you have a clear view of the road and plenty of space to complete the maneuver safely.
Driving in Namibia requires hyper-vigilance. Not only drive defensively on unpredictable, gravel roads, but also on paved roads due to aggressive driving.
With a 4x4, drop the tire pressure on the sand or very rough gravel roads.
On gravel roads, do not exceed 80 km/h.
No night driving, insurance does not cover in case of accidents with wildlife
In case of a flat tire, try to replace the damaged one with a new one as soon as possible. Ask to have the name of the rental car on the invoice so that you can be reimbursed
Ask to check the pressure of the tires before leaving the rental office
Solitaire Roadhouse. Two hours from the Namib-Naukluft National Park. They serve breakfast and dinner.
Bella Luna B&B. We got the one-bedroom apartment, and it was a great one-bedroom apartment, with a living room, kitchen, and bedroom. Breakfast included.
Little Bush Guesthouse. Modern and spacious room. There is a rooftop, perfect for a beer during the sunset.
Etosha Omusati Lodge. Great chalet, modern, spacious, and private. Twenty minutes from the Anderson Gate. Dinner and breakfast included.
Village Boutique Hotel. Nice boutique hotel. The room was spacious and elegant.
Car Rental: Namibia2Go (Windhoek)
Transparent pricing with no hidden insurance surprises, premium cover, zero excess, no deposit, unlimited additional drivers, tyre and glass damage, and spare tyres
Sandwich Harbour 4X4 Excursion: M.N.G Tours Rentals and Shuttle
Sandboarding is included, but you need to book the activity via WhatsApp and confirm you want to do it before the tour starts.
Pelican Point Kayaking Tour: Pelican Point Kayaking